REDARC BCDC1225D Review: The Charger That Does Both
Buy the BCDC1225D if you are wiring a second battery and want alternator and solar charging handled correctly by one device with proper lithium profiles. Skip it if your bank is much larger than 200Ah, where 25A will take longer to recharge than your driving days allow.
Alternator and solar into one 25A charger, with Green Power Priority deciding which source to use.
REDARC Dual Input 25A in-Vehicle DC to DC Battery Charger with MPPT Solar Regulator
~$500
A 25A in-vehicle DC-DC charger with a built-in MPPT solar regulator, charging from alternator and solar at once with Green Power Priority.
Check price on AmazonSpecifications
| Output | 25A |
|---|---|
| Inputs | Dual: vehicle alternator and solar, simultaneously |
| Solar | Built-in MPPT with Green Power Priority, which selects solar first |
| Chemistries | AGM, gel, standard lead acid, calcium and LiFePO4 |
| Bank sizing | Intended for battery banks of 75 to 200Ah in common setups |
| Voltage | 12V and 24V compatible |
| Environment | Sealed electronics, rated to 176F, built for water crossings, heat, dust and vibration |
| Warranty | 2 year limited |
Specifications above come from REDARC's published feature list. Treat pricing as approximate, since Amazon pricing moves.
What it does well
- It solves the modern alternator problem. Smart alternators vary voltage to save fuel, and a simple isolator will not charge a second battery properly from one.
- Dual input means one device, one set of wiring and one point of configuration rather than a separate solar controller.
- Green Power Priority takes solar first and reduces alternator load, which is genuinely useful on a hot day at idle.
- Correct multi-stage profiles for LiFePO4 matter, because lithium wants a different charge curve from lead acid and getting it wrong shortens life.
- Fully sealed electronics rated for water crossings, heat and vibration is the right specification for something bolted under a bonnet or in a wheel arch.
Where it falls short
- 25A is the constraint. On a 300Ah lithium bank a deep discharge takes many hours of driving to recover, and REDARC's own guidance points at 75 to 200Ah.
- It is a component that needs correct cable sizing on both sides, fusing at both batteries, and a sensible mounting location with airflow.
- The MPPT is sized to the charger, so a large solar array will exceed what it can use.
- It is expensive relative to a basic isolator, and the value is entirely in charging correctly rather than in charging at all.
- Two years of warranty is shorter than some competitors offer, though REDARC's field reputation is long.
What owners report
REDARC's reputation in vehicle charging is strong and long-standing, and owner reports focus on reliability in harsh conditions rather than on features. The recurring practical theme is sizing: people fit a 25A charger to a bank far larger than it suits and then complain that the battery never reaches full. Match the charger to the bank with the battery bank calculator and be realistic about how many hours you actually drive.
The second theme is why this exists at all. A voltage-sensitive relay or isolator connects two batteries and hopes; a DC-DC charger presents a correct, chemistry-specific charge profile regardless of what the alternator is doing. On any vehicle with a smart alternator that difference is the whole ballgame, which is the subject of our DC-DC charger versus battery isolator comparison.
Third, source. Most builds over-invest in solar and under-invest in alternator charging, when driving is the more reliable input in almost every climate. Our solar versus alternator charging comparison covers it, and if you are also choosing a solar controller separately, MPPT versus PWM explains why the MPPT here matters. Size the cable from current and run length with the wire gauge calculator, fuse at both ends, and have an auto electrician do the work if high-current DC wiring is not something you are confident with.
Who it suits
- Anyone fitting a second battery to a vehicle with a smart alternator.
- Builds with banks in the 75 to 200Ah range.
- People who want alternator and solar handled by one device.
Who should skip it
- Very large banks, which need a higher output charger to recover in reasonable driving time.
- Builds with a large solar array that would exceed the built-in MPPT.
- Anyone using a power station rather than a wired system.
Alternatives worth considering
LiTime 12V 320Ah Mini LiFePO4 Lithium Battery
~$765
The storage this charger exists to fill, in a footprint small enough to actually fit under a bench.
Check price on AmazonVictron Energy MultiPlus-II Power Inverter 3000VA 12-Volt
~$900
Handles inverting and shore or generator charging, which a DC-DC charger does not. The two together plus a battery is a complete system.
Check price on AmazonBLUETTI AC180 Portable Power Station 1152Wh 1800W
~$449
Similar money for a complete portable system if you decide you would rather not wire anything into the vehicle at all.
Check price on AmazonKeep reading
- DC-DC charger vs battery isolator compared
- MPPT vs PWM charge controllers compared
- Wire gauge calculator
- LiTime 12V 320Ah review
- Victron MultiPlus-II 3000VA review
- LiTime 100Ah self-heating review
This review draws on published specifications, manufacturer figures and the consensus of verified owner reviews. We have not tested this product ourselves, and we say so rather than implying otherwise. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a DC-DC charger or will an isolator do?
On an older vehicle with a fixed-voltage alternator an isolator can work. On a modern vehicle with a smart alternator it will not charge a second battery reliably, and it will not charge lithium correctly at all. A DC-DC charger is the right answer for almost every current build.
Is 25A enough?
For banks of roughly 75 to 200Ah, which is REDARC's own guidance, yes. On a 300Ah or larger bank, 25A means a lot of driving to recover a deep discharge, and a higher output charger is the sensible choice.
Can it charge from solar and the alternator at the same time?
Yes, that is the point of the dual input, and Green Power Priority takes solar first so the alternator does less work. It replaces a separate solar charge controller in most builds.
Does it charge lithium properly?
It has a LiFePO4 profile alongside AGM, gel, lead acid and calcium. Selecting the right profile matters, because lithium wants a different charge curve and using a lead acid profile shortens its life.
Can I install it myself?
The DC wiring is achievable if you can size cable for the current and run length and fuse it correctly at both ends. If you are not confident with high-current DC work, have an auto electrician do it. Undersized or unfused cable is a fire risk.
Electrical safety: 12V is low voltage but not low energy. A lithium house battery can push several hundred amps into a short circuit, and undersized or unfused cable is one of the most common causes of vehicle fires in DIY builds. Every circuit must be fused at the source of power, within a few inches of the battery terminal, at or below the ampacity of the smallest conductor it protects. Size cable for voltage drop as well as ampacity, torque terminals to specification, and have a lithium installation inspected by a qualified installer before it carries load. The figures on this page are researched guidance, not a substitute for ABYC E-11 or your component manufacturer's installation manual.
How we choose: we compare published manufacturer specifications, standards documents including ABYC E-11, and verified owner reviews. We do not test gear in person. Vehicle payload, roof load and charging limits vary by model and year, so confirm yours against the door jamb sticker and the owner's manual rather than any number published here.
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